Dress-maker s square and rule



(No Model.)

' F. LONG.

. DRESS MAKERS. SQUARE AND RULE. No. 470,809. Patented Mar. 15,1892.

n fr w J I I avwe'wtoz 3 A fluom FLORA LONG, OF FORT lVAYNE, INDIANA.

DRESS-MAKERS SQUARE AND RULE.

SPECIFICATION forming part Of Letters Patent NO. 470,809, dated March15, 1892. Application filed April 13, 1891- Serial No. 388,801. (Nomodel.)

To aZZ whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, FLORA LONG, a citizen of the United States, residingat the city of Fort lVaynefin the countyof Allen, in the State ofIndiana, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Rules forCutting Garments; and I do hereby-declare that the following is a full,clear, and exact description of the invention, which will enable othersskilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same,reference being had to the accompanying drawing, which forms part ofthis specification.

My invention relates to improvements in rules for measuring and cuttingout garments and patterns; and its objects are to provide a singleinstrument which shall combine all of the curves and measurementsnecessary to lay out the proper pattern, and also to provide improvedcurves for such work. 1 accomplish these objects by the mechanismillustrated in the accompanying drawing, in which the figure is a sideView of my measuring-rule.

This rule is preferably made of wood of suitable fineness of texture andis in form of a carpenters square, on its outside lines forming a rightangle, the long side being twentyfour inches long and the shorter sidetwelve inches, and the inches and parts of inches being marked orindicated thereon in the usual manner, but not shown in the drawing toavoid confusing the view. The inner side or edge of the short arm from Ato B is cut out to form an arc of a circle whose chord is seven andone-eighth inches long and its radius three feet. This is myshouldercurve. From 13 to G, I cut out or form on'the outside edge of thebrace-piece WV another curve or are of a circle whose chord is eight andelevensixteenths inches and its radius eleven inches, the point G beingnine and one-half inches from the straight line or outside edge of theshort arm of the square. From G to H on the inner edge of the long arm Iconstruct another curve or are of a circle of lesser curvature, curvingoutwardly from the straight line of the long arm of the square, itschord being eight and one-fourth inches and its radius ten feet. From Hto I, I cut the inner edge of the long arm to form an arc of a circlewhose chord is three and. seven-eighths inches and its radius four feetand one-half an inch. From I to J, I out or construct another curve orare of a circle whose chord is two and five-eighths inches, with aradius of seven and three-fourths inches. These curves from B to J areconstructed so as to form a continuous line. I also construct a curve orare of a circle L L K on the inner side of the brace-piece V, whosechord is five and three-sixteenths inches and its radius one foot andthree-eighths of an inch. I also construct a curve or arc of a circle LN on the inner corner of'the square, whose chord is three and one-halfinches and its radius two and five-sixteenths inches, the line N to Kbeing a straight line and parallel with the straight line of the longarm of the square. I also place four difierent series of measurementsupon this square, as follows: Commencing on the short arm one andfive-eighths inches from the straight line of the long arm I draw elevenlines at right angles to the short arm one-eighth of an inch distantfrom each other and number them consecutively, commencing with No. 8 atline Y, to No.18 at line Z. This is my shoulder measure. Oomlnencing onthe curve L N (three-fourths of an inch distant from the point L) at 0fourteen lines are similarly marked one-eighth of an inch apart fromeach other upon the side of the curve and are numbered consecutively,commencing at No. .7 at line 0, to No. 20, line P. This measurement ismyback neck measure. Commencing on the long arm at R a distance of twoand one-eighth inches from the angle of the square I draw eleven linesat right angles to the square one-fourth of an inch distant from eachother and number them consecutively, commencing with N o. 8 at R, to No.18 at S. These measurements are for the front neck measure. Commencingon the long arm five and one-fourth inches from the corner I drawthirty-one lines at right angles to the straight line of the long arm ofthe square one-fourth of an inch dis I tant from each other and numberthem consecutively, commencing with N o. 20 at line T, to No. 50, lineV, as shown. These measurements are for my bust measure. In the drawingthe first and last lines of these different measures only are numbered,omitting the to prevent confusion intermediate numbers ICO in the view.I also mark on the curves points to be measured from,as follows: a pointat O distant from B one and seven-eighths inches, another point at Ddistant from 0 two and one-half inches, and another point at F distantfrom D two and one-fourth inches. I-

in describing the use of my device. The curveL N is the back-of-the-neckcurve. The

curve and straight line L N K is the front neck-curve. The curve L L Kis the back armcurve. Curve A B is the shoulder-curve. B O is thesleevecurve. The curve C D F to H is the rounding-back curve. The curveD F to ll is the inner curve to the second backpiece. The curve F G toII is the underarm curve. The compound curve J I II is the dart-and-hipcurve. On the reverse side of the square the curve E G II is thedolmancurve and L M is the front under-arm-seye curve. In using all ofthese curves the point of commencing is at the letter first named indescribing them, and thelength is determined by the actual measurementsof the person to be fitted.

The dart-and-hip-curve line described and the curveL N are not new; butI have never seen or known them combined with a square. The other curvesare my own invention. The shoulder measure and back neck measure are myown invention. The combination of the front neck measure and the bustmeasure as placed on the square are my own invention.

To use my device, for example, in cutting out a waist or patterntherefor say, for a lady having a thirty-sixineh bust and athirteen-inch neck, as ascertained by actual measurement-I draw with thesquare on the material or paper lines at right angles, as is commonlydone by persons skilled in the art. The shoulder measure is used todetermine the point on the short line of the angle drawn from which Icommence to draw on the pattern the front neck-curve, and also the pointfrom which to commence the shoulder curve.

The distance to be measured is determined by the actual size of theneck. In the example such distance is from the corner of the angle toline No. 13, the neck being thirteen inches in circumference. If it werefourteen or sixteen, then the measurement would be to No. 1% or No. 16,as the case might be. The backneck measu re is used to determine thedistance to draw the backbf-the-neck curve from the center of the backof the neck as usually laid out on the pattern. The line is drawn from Lto the number corresponding to the size of the neck. In the examplestated itis to No. 13. The front neck measure is used to determine thedistance to the point on the long line of the right angle so drawn wherethe front neck-curvemustintersect such line. The bust measure determinesthe width of the pattern for the left and right front waists,respectively, measuring from the long line of said triangle at rightangles to the end of the front arm-scye curve. The distance correspondsto the measure of the person. In the example it is to No. 36 on themeasure, and this point of the front arm-scye curve is fixed by suchmeasurement. The bust measure may commence five inches from said corner;but this does not give a preferable margin.

I therefore prefer to commence live and one fourth inches, as stated.

I am enabled to fit any person exactly without having to cut and try, asis necessary in using all other kinds of rules.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is-

A dress-makers square consisting of the two arms graduated into inches,having a curved connection at the inner corner and the connecting-brace,the shoulder measure Y Z on the short arm, the bust measure T Z andfront neck measure It 8 on the long arm, and the back neck measure 0 Pon the curve at the corner, and the various curves used in dress-makingarranged upon the arm, conmeeting-brace, and arm connection,substantiall y as described.

In testimony whereof I hereunto subscribe my name, in the presence oftwo witnesses, this (5th day of April, A. D. 18511.

FLORA LONG.

Witnesses:

ALBERT BAKER, H. O. l-IAR'IMAN.

IOO

